Avoiding tourist crowds is important these days—especially when traveling in peak season. Because I eat late and don’t mind the smoke, I’m surrounded only by happy locals. I’ve noticed that in Spain, a restaurant recommended in all the guidebooks is filled with Americans at eight or nine o’clock, but by 10 p.m., the tourists head for their hotels and the locals retake their turf. Suddenly “touristy” restaurants are filled with eager local diners. I’ve also noticed that some restaurateurs are pleased to have their best eating zone be the smoking zone. The intended result: a hardy local following . . . with very few tourists.